About a week before we were due to fly out to Split in Croatia we chanced upon a repeat of Rick Stein’s gastronomic road trip “From Venice to Istanbul” on BBC television. Episode two of the series crossed the Adriatic Sea to our very destination and set about exploring local Dalmatian cuisine.
Featured on the episode was “Villa Spiza”, an eatery that definitely seemed worth seeking out even if apparently “hidden” in one of a myriad small alleys forming Split's old town. Villa Spiza is indeed an intimate neighbourhood taverna, no more than a modest room with wooden beams, exposed stone walls, an ‘L’-shaped counter, and a kitchen squeezed into one end and along one side. There are a few tables, but most guests eat at one of several small, hinged versions attached to the counter. Here you can perch on a bar stool, chat with the most convivial hosts, drink the local beer, and watch your order being prepared in front of your eyes. Everything about Villa Spiza is very definitely open, honest and welcoming.
Apparently “Spiza” is a Dalmatian dialect word meaning “food” in the sense of “grub” so, unsurprisingly, Villa Spiza offers fast-ish food - remember, it’s cooked to order - in a traditional Split style. The menu is hand-written daily. While there are a few recurring dishes, most of what’s on offer changes each day depending on what was available fresh that morning from the local markets. Indeed, almost all the ingredients, if not grown locally, are foraged either from the sea or from the hills overlooking the ancient town. When in season, for example, wild asparagus is prepared with pasta, seafood, local olive oil, white wine and seasoning. It is a simple yet delicious dish.
Unsurprisingly, given Split’s location on the beautiful Dalmatian coast, seafood is a speciality. The fish and bean stew, as prepared for Mr Stein by chef proprietor Ivana Gamulin, is a definite treat; one however that is not offered every day. Yes, it is quite some fun to watch the menu being “updated” by the simple expedient of crossing out an entry as the last portion is sold.
Each night it was obvious that a lot of locals stop by for a beer or glass of wine. Lively drinking sessions often take place on and around the bench in the alley outside.
Overall, Villa Spiza a cosy, intimate restaurant serving only a handful of guests at a time but with exceptionally good food cooked to order right in front of you. If inspired to visit, try and arrive early if you don't want to miss out. Once settled in the house rules are simple: you're welcome to stay as long as you want, but once it’s gone, it’s gone.
Contact: Kružićeva 3
21000, Split, Croatia
+385 91 152 1249
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